My mate Steve goes on and on about this mythical wave that breaks once in a blue moon, "but when it does you want to be on it", he reckons. I've checked it about 200 times and nada ... not a chance ... nothing ... not even a vaguely surfable section.
Steve will often recite tales of long righthanders off this point and big days where it rivals any point break in the country. Usually he has surfed it by himself and has nobody to collaborate his story, thus perpetuating the theory that perhaps he is exaggerating the length, size and beauty of this wave.
He has even called me on days when he think it will be okay and I scramble there eagerly only to find it isn't breaking or even looking like breaking – or it is too big and unruly and closing out the bay.
Eventually I began to reason that Steve just liked the fact that his house sits right above this wave and he had convinced himself that he lived next to the best thing since J-Bay was discovered.
I had written it off as a figment in Steve's imagination.
Then, last week, Steve's claims were justified in truly spectacular fashion. While cruising the coast shooting photos one evening I stumbled across a right point that left me speechless. No one was out and it was kind of nice just to watch set after set pour through with huge golden plumes and big, open, empty barrels.
Sorry for doubting you, Steve. This really is a fickle, but beautiful wave to behold.
On behalf of the team at Dunedin Light we wish all of our subscribers a holiday season filled with good times and lots of beach time.
See you at the beach ...
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