Although I love early starts, I haven't been doing many lately. But I woke up early on Sunday – before sunrise was even a thing. The drive down the hill was as I expected – the sun's first rays revealing a slow calm ocean state. I knew it would be small and summery without any significant swell in the forecast. Even so, St Clair can be magical on these early mornings with a cluster of locals venturing out to surf in the less challenging conditions.
As I rounded the corner onto the esplanade I was shaken to see an actual overhead set breaking on the point. It was a serendipitous moment for me – expecting nothing only to stumble across a strange and beautiful swell pouring through.
I wasn't the only puzzled one. Already a swarm of surfers were making the most of it. With the high tide, the sets seemed to be breaking on the point but hardly reaching the beach. It was all about that kelpy, irregular assortment of rocks that first break the back of south swells arriving on our shore.
The pulse came with its lulls. There were at times 10 minutes between sets. I shot as much as I could manage before darting out to get amongst it, knowing I had missed the peak of this anomaly of a swell. And right about the time I hit the water to paddle out, it started to back right off. I got a few and enough to be stoked for the rest of the day. I'll take that.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS We've had a bunch of enquiries for our limited edition framed artworks this past month. Some of our favourites hang in some beautiful homes around the country (and a few overseas as well). If you're curious about getting something for your own home or work then please get in contact and we can make that happen for you.
Proudly supported by:
